Do Topical Biostimulators Really Work? What the Evidence Says About Collagen Stimulation
Biostimulators have become one of the most talked-about areas in aesthetic medicine, but can a treatment applied to the surface of the skin really stimulate collagen and elastin? Dr Preema Vig looks at topical biostimulation, the evidence behind it and where treatments such as Revision D·E·J BioStim fit into modern regenerative aesthetics.
By Dr Preema Vig, Medical Director, Dr Preema London Clinic
What is a biostimulator?
When I talk to patients about biostimulators, they tend to assume we’re talking about injectables.
Put simply, a biostimulator is a treatment designed to encourage the skin’s own regenerative processes, including the production of collagen and elastin. Rather than simply adding volume or temporarily hydrating the skin, the aim is to improve the quality and structure of the skin itself.
More recently, we’ve started to see treatments claiming to do this without an injection.
And I think that raises a very reasonable question: if we’re applying something to the surface of the skin, can it really stimulate collagen?
Or are we simply giving skincare a new name?
That’s the question I wanted to explore here. Rather than simply saying that something works, let’s look at what the treatment is actually doing, what the evidence tells us and, importantly, what we can realistically expect from it.
How can a topical treatment stimulate collagen?
This is the part I find particularly interesting, because our skin is designed to be a barrier. That’s one of its most important jobs.
So I’m always cautious when I hear claims suggesting that simply putting an ingredient onto the skin means it will automatically reach where we want it to go and create a particular response.
That’s what caught my attention with Revision D·E·J BioStim. Rather than being a conventional serum or skincare product, it’s a professional treatment that combines antioxidant biostimulating acidic phytocompounds, with a multi-acid system.
The research behind the treatment proposes that controlled chemical exfoliation helps these compounds penetrate the skin more effectively, with the aim of supporting the skin’s own regenerative processes.
But understanding how the treatment is designed to work is only part of the picture. What really matters is whether there’s evidence that it can actually stimulate collagen and improve the skin.
What does the evidence say about collagen stimulation?
A 2025 study published in the peer-reviewed Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology investigated the treatment used in D·E·J BioStim through both laboratory tissue research and a clinical study.
In the laboratory part of the study, researchers found that treated skin showed more than a 25% increase in collagen and elastin compared with skin that had not received the active treatment.
What makes this interesting is that the researchers weren’t just asking people whether they thought their skin looked better. They were also looking for measurable changes in the skin itself.
The clinical part of the study followed women aged 38 to 60 who received three treatments, around four weeks apart. Improvements were seen progressively across the course, with fine lines improving by an average of 14.9% after the first treatment and 21.8% after the third.
By week 12, 80% of participants had also shown an improvement in skin laxity, with improvements reported in wrinkles, smoothness, radiance and overall skin appearance.
For me, that’s what makes the research interesting. We have laboratory findings showing changes in collagen and elastin, alongside visible improvements in the skin after treatment.
But it’s also important to be realistic about what one study can tell us.
How strong is the evidence?
I think it’s important to be realistic about what one study can tell us.
The results are encouraging, but this is still relatively early research. The clinical study was small, with 32 women completing it, and the research was supported by Soins de la peau Revision, with several of the authors affiliated with the company.
That doesn’t mean we should disregard the findings. It’s common for manufacturers to support research into new treatments and technologies, particularly when they are first introduced.
But I wouldn’t take one study and say, “This proves it works.”
I’d like to see larger studies, longer-term follow-up and further independent research. For now, I think it’s fair to say that there is published evidence supporting D·E·J BioStim and its effects on collagen, elastin and visible skin quality, but the evidence is still developing.
Is a topical biostimulator the same as an injectable biostimulator?
No, and I think this is an important distinction.
Although they share the same terminology, topical and injectable biostimulators work differently. With an injectable treatment, the product is placed directly into the skin or tissue. A topical treatment works from the surface, so we shouldn’t assume that the two will produce the same response or the same results.
At the clinic, we use a number of treatments that sit within the wider regenerative aesthetics conversation, including polynucléotides et Profhilo, alongside non-injectable approaches such as Revision D·E·J BioStim.
For me, it isn’t about one being better than another. It comes back to what we’re actually trying to improve.
If skin quality is the main concern, that’s a very different conversation from treating loss of facial structure, more significant laxity or pigmentation. And importantly, not every patient who wants to improve their skin needs or wants an injectable treatment.
Do topical biostimulators really work?
Based on the evidence we have so far, I think there is good reason to be interested in topical biostimulation.
For D·E·J BioStim specifically, published research has shown changes in collagen and elastin alongside measurable improvements in fine lines, skin laxity, smoothness, radiance and overall skin quality.
But this is still an emerging area, and I’d like to see the research continue to develop. I also wouldn’t assume that every product described as a topical biostimulator will produce the same results.
What interests me is that we’re finding new ways to work with the skin itself. Having worked in aesthetics for 23 years, I’ve seen the conversation move increasingly towards skin quality, collagen stimulation and regenerative approaches, rather than simply treating individual lines or adding volume.
For me, it’s less about doing more, and more about understanding what the skin actually needs.
Interested in D·E·J Biostim?
Revision D·E·J BioStim is available at Dr Preema London Clinic in Mayfair and is performed by our experienced Medical Aestheticians.
Prendre rendez-vous pour une consultation for personalised advice, or chat with Dr Preema AI, our virtual clinic assistant, to explore your treatment options and find out more.
Écrit par Dr Preema Vig, directeur médical de la clinique Dr Preema London
